Question of the Day | Is it worth the switch from Nikon?

Q: We just recently bought a Nikon D3000. We like it because it offers a “Guide” mode which is basically the idiots guide to taking a great photo. Good for a novice like myself…

But, we would like to get a few new lenses and I’m finding that not all of the lenses autofocus on this camera. We are thinking of bagging it altogether and getting a different entry level DSLR. Any thoughts on the Canon or Pentax? We feel like we are samrt people and capable fo taking great photos even without the special Guide mode. Thanks!

A: Thanks for your question! Kim and I did a two-parter to give some varying perspective. :)

• Kimberly says…

Thanks for the question, fellow Nikonian! Well, at least for the moment…

So, you’re absolutely right. Not all lenses will auto-focus on this camera - specifically, only AF-S lenses will do the job. In addition to that, if I may say, you have a couple things working against you with that model.

Guide mode, although quite handy, most other Nikon DSLRs - D60 & D90 have just as easy of a guide to navigate through, with a question mark for each topic to teach you a few things along the way. And since you and hubby are fairly quick learners, I feel you can easily get by with those alternative guides.

The D3000 has been known to be riddled with problems and has been quite disappointing based on several consumer reviews. I wanna give you the straight up goods, so here are a few of the reasons why.

• LCD- Not as sharp as even the D40, (discontinued) D60 or the D90.
• It’s a much slower camera, coupled with a cumbersome operation - already, me no likey.  I believe it to be ergonomically challenged. :)
• ISO- Not sure where you are writing from - but around these here parts - ISO can be my best friend sometimes. Unfortunately, as much as I love Toronto - it sure isn’t sunny San Diego with ideal shooting conditions and glorious light all year round. So to be restricted to 800 ISO or less, that’s definitely a no-no in my books. This leads to inferior quality of image which is *not* what you want for your precious photos!
• Live view - inconvenient - you *must* hit the play button to check your most recent image vs. it automatically popping up on the screen immediately after the shot. This is big for me. With kids you have *little* time to be doing anything other than capturing what they’re doing at *that* moment. Sometimes, we only have 2 seconds to catch something great. So to make me fiddle with the camera to check to make sure that I’m on track takes away from the time I could be spending, clicking away and snapping some shots.

So- with that said, I want to offer my recommendations, keeping with Nikon- since you have the investment of the lens and well, I really like these next couple cameras! I will note the pros and cons of each DSLR and *you* can make the call on which is best for you and hubby. :) You can’t go wrong with either!

D5000 - $569.99 CDN

• great price point for a fantastic DSLR
• superior ‘Quite Mode’
• ISO - shoots up to 6400 ( although, you’re pushing it after 3200. )
• 2.7” LCD
• less control buttons than the D90, which forces you to rely on the menu much more
• video mode
• excellent image quality
• easy to handle

D90 - $699 CDN

• great price point for an excellent camera.
• does not offer ‘Quite Mode’
• ISO - shoots up to 6400 ( same as D5000 - pushing it after 3200 )
• 3” LCD screen - sharp, sharp, sharp!
• better control buttons ( superior feature ) allowing you to get to the settings that you want *much* quicker and without having to go through the menu
• video mode
• slightly better technical image quality
• better ergonomics - making it easier to get to the menu screen
• easy handling
• high performance
• better in low light conditions
• Older AF-S lenses will work with the D90.
• The D90 has been around since 2008 - which says a lot these days with companies always feeling the need to upgrade or discontinue or modify - the D90 is a great entry level camera that has stood the test of time. At least, in camera years!

In short, for an additional $130 - you can make the jump to the D90 and have: slightly better image quality, a faster camera, larger screen, better control features, compatibility with older AF-S lenses and better ergonomics.

OR you can go with the D5000 and take that $130 and invest in a prime lens (unless you’re a zoom kind of gal! :) ) such as the 35mm f1.8? The 35mm will give you a *true* 50mm focal length, when you factor in the crop sensor with the D5000 or the D90.

• Tamara says…

I agree with Kimberly. But since saying “ditto” would be relatively short ending, I’ll say investing in a new Nikon body and keeping your family of lenses is an easy and ideal road to travel.

I don’t want to imply that, once you’ve become stuck in with a brand, you’re stuck for good. But it’s a costly switch so there is definitely an element of “switch now or forever hold onto your purse strings.”

Nikon, Canon and Pentax are industry leaders for a reason but every manufacturer has a few skeletons in their closet relating to makes and models that just aren’t up to their usual standard.

I would investigate Kim’s alternatives before making the jump. That said, if you do decide to cross over, have a peek at this post where I recommend both a Canon and a Pentax option to choose from.

Happy shopping and we hope we were able to help!

16 December 2 Permalink

Question A Day: Baseline DSLR

Q: countryfair asked:

I have always loved photography but haven’t really gotten into it since high school. Now that I have a little girl, I’ve been taking pictures like crazy. I want to upgrade my camera to a dslr. I am familiar with Canon’s so will go with them, but do think their baseline Rebel XS is a good camera, or should I splurge on the Rebel T1i? I am planning on learning how to really use the camera, but imagine I will mostly use the auto settings.

Thanks for your help. I love both your websites!

A: Thanks! And thank you for the question!

Here’s the thing: the Canon Rebel line is a great line, but there are shortcomings of the XS in particular that I feel are valuable to consider.

The Canon XS is currently retailing for about $580 CAD with a kit lens. The XS came out in 2008 and, as such, doesn’t have any movie capabilities. The T1i, its big brother, does have a movie capability and a higher megapixel count at around 15MP vs. 10MP.

The T1i is currently retailing for around $800 CAD. For that extra few hundred, you’re getting a remarkably better camera that you could most definitely grow into, but if you don’t think you need those extra oomph-factor features, it’s definitely not going to be money well spent.

I know you said you’re familiar with Canon, but maybe consider looking into this other option as well: the Pentax K-x which retails for about $620 with a kit lens, making it just a smidge higher in price than the XS. The thing I like about this camera vs. the Canon XS is that it’s low noise for a high ISO, 12MP, movie capabilities and an image stabilizer mechanism that is quite, quite popular.

Automatic modes are incredibly handy, and if you’re looking for a camera that will take great pics while it does the majority of the math on the settings, this might be a great option for you. Even if you have a separate movie recording device, I know from personal experience it can be really handy having it all in one so maybe consider the Pentax just to see? I just think it might give your pics that extra edge with the increased MP count, image stabilization (never hurts with little ones!) and so on.

That said, I truly believe you buy the best equipment you can afford and you make it work with attention to detail as the user. Trust me: a $10,000 camera is just as capable of taking a bad photo as a $100 one is. After all, my first DSLR is still capable of snapping a great pic if all the settings are in place properly! It’s about practice making perfect just as much as it is about the equipment.

Enjoy, and I hope that helps!

xo, Tamara

4 November 6 Permalink

Question a Day: Canon 450D?

Q: natashababyyy asked:

I’m about to get a Canon EOS 450D just in time for the impending arrival of my Little Man. Is this a worthwhile choice and should I be able to pick up the basic techniques with this particular model?

A: HI!

He’s on his way so soon now! Every day, closer than the one before!

A few things about your question, now. Are you buying pre-owned or brand new? I ask because it swings the deal in a few directions.

The Canon 450D was brought out in early 2008, which in technology years, can make it a bit older and therefore a little less snazzy than it’s siblings down the line.

I’ve compared it for you with the Rebel T1i and T2i, both I feel comparable products with things to consider.

The T1i is from 2009 whereas the T2i is from 2010. I’ve mentioned before that, to me, the T1i is still a valuable investment within the two.

Both the T1i and T2i shoot movies, whereas the 450D does not. Something to consider with a new baby, for sure, as it minimizes the amount of tech equipment you need at your finger tips for all those amazing “honey, grab the camera” moments.

Further, the 450D’s ISO stops at 1,600 where the T1i boosts to 3,200 and the T2i all the way to 6,400. Now, will you be going that high? I wouldn’t advise it anyway, but rather fiddle with your other settings and the environmental light, but again, something to consider.

The 450D’s megapixel count comes in at around 12, with the T1i at about 15 and the T2i at about 18. The T1i shoots about 10% slower than the 450D when measuring frames per second, whereas the T2i shoots 10% faster than the 450D on the same count.

But the biggest factor is cost. New, I’m finding the 450D at around the $550 (Canadian) mark, the T1i at $750 and the T2i at $950. With such obvious $200 stepping stones, it all comes down to what the best camera you can afford is. It might be a better investment for you to go with a more inexpensive model and invest in a better lens. Or you might think you will outgrow the one faster than the other, and opt to upgrade straight out of the gate.

So, what am I saying? I’ve said on this blog before that the T1i is a fine choice, and to use that extra dosh to invest in lenses and gear. That said, however, the 450D is going to capture your lil’ man just wonderfully! It’s its job, after all!

In terms of the settings, they’re all going to be the same. And, the faster you can get acquainted with your camera before Button’s arrival, the better! This just means you won’t miss a thing! Start in auto mode to read the camera’s mind, so to speak, and then slowly work your way through mastering program, shutter and aperture priority modes. Soon enough, manual will come quite naturally after all that practice.

xo, Tamara

24 August 1 Permalink

Question A Day | Low Light Limbo w/ Canon (or any) DSLR

Q: Hi Tamara! 

Congrats on the beautiful site! Love it! I hope you don’t mind; I added a link to you on my blog, Wee Bits by Suzanne. 

Here’s my question for you… What setting would you suggest using during the late evening when the house is dark (no natural light)? I hate using the flash as it seems to make faces look ghost like and shadowy. Hhhhmm.. I’m still getting used to my Canon Rebel. It seems as though I have a ways to go. Thanks Tamara! I look forward to following you!

— Suzanne

A: Hi Suzanne: Thanks for the link and the follow and, while we’re at it, the question too! Much appreciated!

Setting for low light, late evening force our hand on three options:

• high ISO with the reality and risk of noise, 
• P (Program) mode and the ability to stay very, very still to keep blur at bay,
• and, finally, some sort of flash.

Aw, shucks. I know. Flash can be a mood killer, especially external flashes which are bulky and scream “hey, look at me!”

But there are options before we get there…

We looked at high ISO last week* here.

Program mode continues to be a favourite of mine. Just the other night I wanted to continue documenting Isla’s sleep strike and P-mode served me well, catching the low light off the lamp and accurately reflecting both the environment of the room as well as our contented mood. But it didn’t start that way.

Auto | w/ External Flash pointed/bounced off white ceiling

Blech. Not what I was looking for. Here’s where P-mode stepped in.

Program | w/ camera resting on countertop as makeshift tripod

Note the reflection of the quartz surface bouncing in the left corner… Artistic? Maybe. But also a bit distracting. 

Program | w/ camera resting on dining table as tripod, eliminating reflection

Program | w/ camera on table, using 10 sec. self timer

Now, these can all be slightly lightened and adjusted in post-production, but for now — SOOC — they tell a fine tale for our purposes. The key for low light is having a steady hand which, I don’t know about you but by day’s end I don’t. I use objects found around me (books, tables, etc.) as tripods and the self-timer or even a wireless remote control to keep the camera still and away from my tired hands. Then, the only battle is keeping the subjects still. 

Flash can be used effectively, as in way more effectively than my photo up above. That is coming in the next post!

* I think my week/end’s worth of queued posts got lost in the glitch last week! Thanks to everyone who participated in the survey; I’m running all previously scheduled posts this week, including the winner of the 7x7 photo book! 

29 June 8 Permalink